Wine Paris 2023 - Domaine Servin

Chablis Montée de Tonnerre

2022 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre | Vinous 90-92

The 2022 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru suffered some frost damage, and so was cropped at 42hl/ha; this cuvée is slightly higher in alcohol at 13.35%. It has quite an intense, energetic, menthol-tinged bouquet with plenty of citrus fruit. The palate is well-balanced and defined with a lightly spiced entry. There’s a little more salinity than the Mont de Milieu, with a nice bitter twist on the finish. A level-up from the 2021.
Antonio Galloni – Vinous

2022 Chablis “Montée de Tonnerre”: (91-93)

(from a huge 2.74 ha parcel in Montée de Tonnerre proper and Pied d’Aloup). Here too there is enough wood influence present to mention on the pure and elegant nose of spicy floral, apple and ocean spray. I very much like the texture of the vibrant and stylish middleweight flavors that flash ample minerality on the youthfully austere and long finish where a touch of bitter lemon zest slowly emerges. Lovely. (91-93)/2030+
Allen Meadows – Burghound.com

Chablis Grand Cru Bougros

2022 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru | Vinous 92-94

The 2022 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru, matured in tank without any barrels, has a more complex bouquet than the Blanchot, more fruit depth with dried apricot and yellow flower scents, and impressive vitality and tension. The palate is well-balanced, with a fine bead of acidity counterbalancing the slightly honeyed fruit and hints of melon and mango towards the harmonious finish. This is going to be superb. 2026-2045.
Antonio Galloni – Vinous

2022 Chablis – Bougros: (92-94)

(from a .46 ha parcel; matured in a mix of 2 to 10-year-old wood). Moderate wood sets off less elegant but beautifully layered aromas that include those of pear liqueur, essence of lemongrass and enough Chablis typicity to be convincing. The caressing but powerful larger-scaled flavors possess excellent density while exhibiting evident muscle on the impressively complex and persistent finish. This is notably less refined than the Preuses and Blanchot, but refinement isn’t why one buys Bougros. (92-94)/2032+
Allen Meadows – Burghound.com

Chablis Grand Cru les Preuses

2022 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru | Vinous 93-95

The 2022 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru is matured entirely in used barrels, the youngest two years old. The nose has a very appealing sense of cohesion, a subtle grilled hazelnut scent coming through with time. The palate is well-balanced with a slightly honeyed entry, citrus peel and orange pith. It fans out impressively towards the finish and feels very persistent in the mouth. This will tangle with the Bougros for supremacy once in bottle. 2026-2045.
Antonio Galloni – Vinous

2022 Chablis – Les Preuses: (92-94)

(from a .69 ha parcel planted in 1956). A reserved but exceptionally pretty nose somewhat grudgingly offers up its aromas of notably spicier white orchard fruit and cool floral whiffs along with hints of shrimp shell and iodine. There is better volume still if perhaps not quite the same minerality on the strikingly textured and hugely long finish that offers just a bit more complexity. This is excellent and worth considering. (92-94) /2032+
Allen Meadows – Burghound.com

Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot

2022 Chablis Blanchot Grand Cru | Vinous 91-93

The 2022 Chablis Blanchot Grand Cru, taken from tank as usual, has quite a classical bouquet with sea spray/oyster shell scents percolating through the citrus fruit. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, one of the more elegant Grand Crus from Servin with an approachable, open finish. Very fine, though less cerebral than the Bougros.
Antonio Galloni – Vinous

2022 Chablis – Blanchot: (91-94)

(from a .91 ha parcel; 100% stainless). This is aromatically similar to the Montée de Tonnerre with the important exception that there is no wood influence here. On the palate there is a certain resemblance as well as I very much like the texture of the bigger and richer, though not finer, medium-bodied flavors that display impressive power on the sappy and palate soaking and slightly firmer finish where the only nit is a touch of warmth. Some patience required. (91-94)/2032+
Allen Meadows – Burghound.com

Chablis 1er Cru Vaucoupin

2022 Chablis Vaucoupin 1er Cru | Vinous 92

The 2022 Chablis Vaucoupin 1er Cru, raised in stainless steel, has a lovely bouquet with orange blossom, light nectarine scents, and just a background hint of vanilla pod. The palate is well-balanced with a touch of spice, the acidity cutting through nicely (pH is 3.2). Very textural on the powerful finish; this is a strong follow-up to the impressive 2021 last year.
Antonio Galloni – Vinous

2022 Chablis “Vaucoupin”: (91-93)

(from a .36 ha holding). A cool and attractively perfumed nose freely offers up its array of ripe white and yellow peach, citrus confit and enough wood influence to merit pointing out. There is excellent richness to the relatively big-bodied flavors that coat the palate on the citrusy, saline-inflected and dry finish that is also sneaky long. This should age well over the mid to even longer-term. (91-93)/2029+
Allen Meadows – Burghound.com

Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu

2022 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru | Vinous 91-93

The 2022 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru suffered a little frost damage earlier in the season and was consequently matured in barrel. It has a slight reduction on the nose, opening with honeysuckle, linden and fern aromas. The palate is well-balanced with an intense entry from the low yields, citrus-fresh with a touch of lemongrass lending spice cranking up towards the finish. Quite a punchy Mont de Milieu with a rich, slightly honeyed finish.
Antonio Galloni – Vinous

2022 Chablis “Mont de Milieu”: (91-94)

(from a .34 ha parcel; vinified and maturation in 100% stainless). A whiff of the exotic lurks in the background of the cool and fresh aromas of essence of pear, lychee, white flower and seaweed. There is very fine mid-palate density to the broad-shouldered and robust but not rustic medium weight plus flavors that display impressive power and outstanding length on the vibrant, balanced and lengthy finish. This should be excellent in due time. (91-94)/2030+
Allen Meadows – Burghound.com

Chablis 1er Cru Les Forêts

2022 Chablis Les Forêts 1er Cru | Vinous 87-89

The 2021 Chablis Les Fôrets 1er Cru was taken directly from tank and saw no wood. The nose offers lemon thyme and light white flower scents, open and generous, one that I feel offers immediate appeal. The palate is well-balanced with a pliant entry, slightly lower acidity than the previous vintage, and modest depth. The finish is just somewhat simplistic compared to Servin’s other Premier Crus.
Antonio Galloni – Vinous

2022 Chablis “Les Forêts”: (90-93)

(90-93) (from a .37 ha parcel; 100% stainless). Ripe yet attractively fresh aromas are comprised by notes of citrus confit, apple, spice and iodine. There is a really lovely texture to the refined and lightly stony middleweight flavors that deliver sneaky good length on the balanced, dry and youthfully austere finish. This is a Forêts that offers a certain finesse, even delicacy, yet one that should repay up to a decade of cellaring if desired. (90-93)/2029+
Allen Meadows – Burghound.com

Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux

2022 Chablis Les Butteaux 1er Cru | Vinous 91-93

The 2021 Chablis Les Butteaux 1er Cru matured in 450-liter and regular barrels, having been racked two weeks before my visit. Mineralité comes through the well-defined and precise bouquet much more than the Vaillons. The palate is well-defined with a lovely, slightly honeyed texture, flecks of dried apricot and quince segueing into a yellow plum and nectarine-tinged finish. This is very promising and successfully shrugs off the warmth of the growing season. 2024-2038.
Antonio Galloni – Vinous

2022 Chablis “Butteaux”: (90-93)

(from a .57 ha holding). Cool and restrained aromas of petrol, quinine, essence of pear and a touch of mineral reduction introduce delicious medium-bodied flavors that exhibit focused power on the lightly austere, balanced and impressively long finale. This well-made effort is going to require at least a few years of patience. (90-93)/2029+
Allen Meadows – Burghound.com

Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

2022 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru | Vinous 89

The 2021 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru is planned to be bottled three times, this being the first in May 2022. The fragrant nose has touches of yellow fruit and crushed stone, just a hint of shaved almond coming through. The palate is well-balanced with a slightly reductive entry, good weight and grip. I’m just seeking more tension on the finish, though there is commendable length. 2024-2033.
Antonio Galloni – Vinous

2022 Chablis “Vaillons”: 90

(from a 2.5 ha holding spread over Vaillons proper, Roncières, Séchet, Châtains and Epinottes). An exuberantly floral-suffused nose reflects additional notes of lemon zest, white pepper and oyster shell. The round, fleshy and caressing medium weight flavors exude a bracing salinity on the moderately dry finish that is shaped by citrus-tinged acidity. This could use better depth so a few years of keeping should prove beneficial. 90/2027+
Allen Meadows – Burghound.com

Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru

2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru | Vinous 93-95

The 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru sees more 450L barrels than Servin’s other Grand Crus. The nose has a bit more reduction, so the terroir expression is occluded compared to the Les Preuses. The palate is beautifully balanced with a seductive, slightly honeyed texture and traces of orange pith, quince and allspice. It really fans out towards the lingering finish. Superb.
Antonio Galloni – Vinous

2022 Chablis – Les Clos: (92-95)

(from a .88 ha parcel; raised in a mix of 2 to 10-year-old wood). Here too moderate wood suffuses the nose of exuberantly spicy and floral aromas that are liberally laced with notes of iodine and oyster shell. There is excellent underlying tension and precision to the notably finer if not quite as powerful big-bodied flavors that are shaped by citrus-tinged acidity on the compact, mineral-driven and built-to-age finale. This too is quite impressive. (92-95)/2032+
Allen Meadows – Burghound.com

Chablis

2022 Chablis | Vinous 88-90

The 2022 Chablis Village has a fragrant bouquet with a floral component, giving it a little more complexity than the Petit Chablis. The palate is well-balanced with fine acidity and good weight, slightly waxy in texture with fine body and grip on the finish. This is worth seeking out.
Antonio Galloni – Vinous

2022 Chablis: 88

(mostly from Courgis fruit). The airy essence of pear, apple and petrol aromas is complemented by the very rich, delicious and caressing medium weight flavors that possess good verve on the nicely balanced, clean and dry finale. This could use better depth but 2 to 3 years of keeping should certainly help. 88/2025+
Allen Meadows – Burghound.com

Petit Chablis

2022 Petit Chablis: 87

(note that in the US market this is labeled as “Sur le Clos”). Cool and airy aromas include those of green fruit, citrus and a touch of quinine character. The plump, fleshy and relatively easy-going flavors offer reasonable depth and persistence on the lightly bitter lemon-inflected finish. To enjoy young. 87/2024+
Allen Meadows – Burghound.com

Chablis Vieille Vigne Massale

2022 Chablis Vieilles Vignes Massale | Vinous 90-92

The 2022 Chablis Vieilles Vignes Massale is 100% fermented and aged in used barrels for up to 24 months. It has a touch of beeswax on the nose, veering into yellow fruit. The palate is well-balanced thanks to a fine spine of acidity, with more tension than the Chablis Village and a prickle of spice on the finish. Worth seeking out – very fine.
Antonio Galloni – Vinous

2022 Chablis – Sélection Massale Vieilles Vignes: (89-91)

(from Les Pargues, aged in 75% stainless and the rest in wood). A discreet though not imperceptible application of wood sets off airy, cool and pretty aromas of mostly white orchard fruit, lemon-lime and sea breeze character. There is again excellent volume to the intense medium-bodied flavors that also conclude in a clean, dry, long and balanced finale where a touch of youthful austerity slowly emerges. This too is very good. (89-91)/2028+
Allen Meadows – Burghound.com